Asian, Oriental, Caucasion, Black Skin - Are You Waxing Them Correctly?

Anjula Thakar, Waxing Expert and Salon System Educator on Choosing The Right Wax

Now more than ever it is Important to give your clients the best treatment ever. Choosing the right wax for your clientele can make your treatment quicker and more effective. There are factors that should be taken into consideration. Waxing is very effective at removing hair from clients from different backgrounds with different skin and hair types. With so many waxes on the market, Therapists can now match a wax with a particular type of hair or skin type and area of treatment.

It is fair to say that there are so many waxing products on the shelves to choose from, but ultimately as a professional and qualified therapist you will gain trust with your preferred wax. After all waxing is classed as causing ‘trauma to the skin’, so you need to believe in the product so the magic can happen!

During my waxing classes I do teach which of the waxes from experience work best with what type of client, what area of the body and why. Waxing has been part of my life since 1990 and is one of my passions. 

Consultation

Firstly, when booking a client’s waxing appointment, ensure you are thorough with any past experiences the client has had with any waxing treatments, medical history and current skincare routine. Also checking any sensitivity to ingredients that are in your products for example lavender, honey etc. Know your products and what’s in them.

A short pre-consultation over a telephone call prior to the appointment, ensures you are not wasting the clients time as well as your appointment slots. You will use this call to advise them that they will need a patch test at least 48 hours before the treatment, discuss if they have any contraindications and importantly advise them how long to leave the hair to grow for so that the hair is removed correctly and effectively. Most clients are aware of the before and after a waxing treatment which is so helpful for busy therapists but the pre and post care advice is still needed to be shared with the client.

You may need to work with a few waxes before you find the right on, the application may not be as smooth as you’d like, or it may be too thick a consistency. Waxes will work differently on each individual which depends on age, skin type, hair type, hormones, sun damage and a list of other factors.

Some clients may be sensitive to smells and find strong smelling substances irritating. Is the wax removing the hair from the root correctly leaving the clients skin super smooth after the treatment? If not, why not? Remember it can take a few months for a client’s hair and skin to get use to any new method of hair removal. Is the client really looking after the area before and after treatment? This is just as important as the actual treatment.

Your client wouldn’t just start using bleach on their hands when they have had a luxurious manicure done, so equally they need to look after their skin after waxing so any ongoing waxing treatments will be successful and get better and better. After a few waxes the hair growth should come back finer and slower.

Prep

 In order for the client to receive the most effective outcome from a waxing treatment, the hair needs to be at a good length, they are best to lightly prep the area to be waxed with a gentle exfoliation and moisturise a few days before to remove dead skin cells and to help the area become more hydrated. Waxing hair from dry skin can be challenging and more painful for a client.

Different Waxes

Strip waxes or warm waxes are the most economical and most popular wax style. However strip waxing can leave a sticky residue on the skin so you must ensure that you have various pre and after wax lotions and oils that cleanse the skin before the treatment and successfully removes the sticky residue at completion. The client feeling a sticky layer on the area that has been waxed when they get home is not what you want!

Warm wax in a roller wax system is great for quick and easy application, is cost effective, works very well on larger body areas like arms and legs. The pre-filled disposable roll on is a very convenient favorite for busy therapists. The wax rolls on nice and evenly in a thin layer, a quick but controlled method of removal is required.

Strip wax has a runny consistency and is applied with a wooden spatula following the hair growth pattern. Most therapist’s find that removing the hair with a paper type disposable strip is more cost effective and offers more speed for the therapist as the paper strip is easier to grip and work with.

Personally, and more recently I have been loving the soft material/cloth disposable strips for sensitive clients or more sensitive areas of the body and face. I find it is gentle for those areas that get irritated. Challenging to use during a speed wax service, but absolutely a must to have during your waxing service for those thinner skin areas.

Warm wax comes in a honey like existence, luxurious crèmes and gel waxes that are scented with refreshing aromas and extracts. The colours are so vibrant and powerful. But for some, the wax in a clear honey like consistency or a rose creme works the best. After all some people are not in favor of strong-smelling products being used on them.

Crème waxes offer moisturizing properties which is pleasing to the skin and for use of medium to fine hair. It also glides on dehydrated areas like the knee area, allowing removal of the hair easier, but must be removed quickly else the wax will dry quickly on dehydrated areas so the key here is to apply the wax in one small area at a time then pulls strip off before going onto the next area.

Gel wax is more of a tackier but runnier consistency, making it fab for any type of body hair coarse or fine and is more economical. This is my favourite for larger areas on the body.

Gel-e-crème is a new generation of waxes which is a game-changer! It is a cross between a gel and a crème so you have the benefits of a creamy moisturising wax but can be applied more thinner to the area so it’s more economical. This is the best wax for a speed waxing service, like leg waxing.

Hot wax is not your typical go to wax for everyday waxing services and is more exclusive for intimate waxing. In recent time it is the preferred method for underarm hair removal and even some facial waxing. There is less trauma with hot wax to the skin, as its kinder and sets hard onto the skin which is removed without a paper strip. The hot wax opens the pores so is very suitable for thicker hair. When hot wax is used on larger areas it isn’t as cost effective but works a treat on thick coarse leg hair. You will see less hair growth from both warm and hot wax as long as the technique is correct.

Hot wax/hard wax can be a favorite to use on the faces of your sensitive clients as you are not applying pressure with a strip and the wax clings to the hair and not the skin but it doesn’t work well on soft vellus hair so be careful. There is no sticky residue left from using this hard wax that comes in all sorts of forms like pellets or blocks, and in gorgeous smelling fragrances leaving your salon welcoming for clients.

Oils protect and moisturize the skin during the waxing treatment of the coarser hair types and in intimate areas allowing less trauma.   

In order for any waxing treatment to be the most successful, the hair growth direction must be observed before applying the wax. In many areas, the hairs can grow in numerous directions so take your time to observe the hair.

Client Types

For nervous clients I would advise them to avoid caffeine on the day of waxing as it can lead to some skin sensitivity and increase blood flow causing more discomfort!

Waxing can be a little more challenging on Asian and dark skin because the hair is usually thicker because of the pigment of the skin.

With black and Caribbean skin, the thickness of the hair plus it has a tendency to curl, so waxing can make the skin more prone to hair breakages or ingrown hairs causing inflammation in the area. This can in turn result in the development of irregular pigmentation and papules especially in the more intimate areas.

This skin type generally may produce more sebum and sweat so very important to cleanse and dry the area thoroughly throughout the treatment. Using a hard wax where possible would be an advantage else a crème-based wax.

With Asian skin sweat glands are usually larger, and the hair will be thicker and coarser. An extra fast setting hot wax in a roller version works a treat.

With Caucasian skin the hair growth will be light to medium thickness and is often thinner and prone to freckles and have less active sebaceous glands. A honey or crème wax is most suitable.

With Oriental skin they have the least amount of face and body hair. A lovely crème wax would be great for this clientele, as the hair will be very fine.

With male waxing the removal of very coarse thick hair can result into red inflamed red bumps if the pre and after care isn’t adhered to. Perifollicular edema is a common reaction to waxing and quickly disappears within 24 hours. Using a hot wax would be a must for treating this type of clientele.

Even though waxing is not the most glamourous treatment in the Beauty Industry, it is the bread and butter of the most salons. It has been around for centuries, and waxes have come a long way since. I am excited to see new waxing generations joining the family.