Is the Recent Media Coverage on Gel Allergies Just Scaremongering?

Gel nails have become increasingly popular in recent years due to their long-lasting effects, but a recent investigation by the UK government is looking into the growing number of people who are developing allergic reactions to some gel nail products - from at home application, to professional use products. Dermatologists have reported treating people for allergic reactions to acrylic and gel nails "most weeks" and are urging people to cut down on gel nail use and stick to "old-fashioned" polishes.

Why the increase in gel allergies?

The rise in gel allergies is not simply a result of an increase in the popularity of gel manicures. In the last 4-5 years, the beauty indsutry has seen a rise in allergies as a result of “at-home kits”, allegations against certain professional-only products which may cause more reactions and incorrect gel application in salons.

Allergies to acrylates have been around for a long time, and anyone can become allergic to acrylates at any time - so how are the current gel allergies different?

Incorrect Application in the Salon

Applying gel polish goes beyond a manicure qualification, so it’s important for nail professionals to ensure they are fully educated before offering gel polish services. Every professional should ensure they hold a manicure and gel polish qualification for this service so that they hold the appropriate chemistry and physiology knowledge. This knowledge and experience is what sets a nail therapist apart from a DIY kit service.

Even with qualifications, there are some shortfalls that can increase gel allergies, which is why it’s important to be aware of them and to avoid them.

Product application & Education - Even if you’re trained, continuing training in the beauty industry is key to success. Techniques are constantly changing. Furthermore, always make use of the training provided by your brand so that you can use the product as intended. This helps to avoid situations where the product can be applied too thick, causing improper curing.

Check the origin of your brand - There have been a number of allegations in the industry about certain brands causing allergic reactions. As a nail therapist you must feel confident about the brands you use, so reach out to your brand, ask about their origins, whether they have completed rigorous testing on their products. In order to understand the hazardous chemicals in the product and how to protect yourself and your client, request a Safety Data Sheet (SDS sheet) from your brand, and if they are reputable, they should be able to provide this with ease. Once you have all this information, you will be able to educate and reassure your client as to the reputability of the brand that you work on. If you’re looking to rebrand because you feel like your brand does not uphold the safety regulations, be aware of some brands already on the market who have great reputations and are putting out statements of support such as this and this.

Lamps - No lamp does it all. Each LED UV lamp has a different wavelength that it cures at and likewise, each product has a different amount of photo initiators in it. While the gel polish may look cured, that does not mean it is cured all the way through and using the wrong type of lamp can lead to under or over curing.

So what’s the solution? Always follow the brands instructions and use a complete system. If you’re working on a certain nail brand, also use a nail lamp from that same lamp - as this is the lamp that the products would have been fully tested with. In fact, more often than not, your insurance will also stipulate not to mix nail systems (i.e. follow the manufacturer’s recommendations and use prep, base, colour and top from the team brand), or your insurance could be invalidated if an allergic reaction occurs.

At-Home Applications

Trained beauty professionals learn the science and chemistry behind products they use. The above information applies to at-home DIY kits being used by consumers, where the information like SDS sheets, and proper lamps as well as the amount of acrylates in a product is not accessible to a consumer. DIY kits and at home applications of gel run an enormous risk of gel allergies and should be entirely avoided without proper training, qualification and products.

So what ‘s next?

It’s important to remember that on the whole, gel manicures completed by qualified trade professionals are fundamentally safe treatments - this has not changed, if you work on reputable brands, and follow manufacturer’s guidelines, you can continue to be confident in your skills and the risk of gel allergies developing is fairly low. This being said, the risk of gel allergies developing, even if you run a perfect business, is always there, allergies can occur overnight for no apparent reason. However, as a nail therapist, continue educating your clients why your services remain safe.

Providing safe nail services is paramount, and taking the above on board is essential. Your clients developing nail allergies can affect your business and reputation, and the medical implications on your clients can extend beyond nails - with similar allergens, adhesives and acrylates being used in diabetic patches, plasters, hip replacements, knee replacements and dental treatments.

Lesley Blair MBE, CEO and Chair of The British Association of Beauty Therapy & Cosmetology (BABTAC) says “It is concerning to hear the growing cases of allergies to light-curing gel manicure products, especially as at-home manicure kits are still so accessible, which can make it harder for the average person to identify harmful ingredients. I’m sure this news will alarm many people, though it is worth noting that there are many brands out there offering safe, low level HEMA or HEMA-free formulas.”

It’s important to not take this issue lightly, and nail therapists must continue to educate themselves, hold the appropriate training qualifications and insurance on the products they use and use nail systems as complete systems to negate the risks.

While doing this, inform your clients of the safety of the treatments, provide them the information on where risks in nail treatments occur and how you overcome them; answer their questions and educate them as you have been educated in the safety of professional treatments - as long as you do all this, it’s business as usual.