The Art of Microblading

Microblading first surfaced in Asia and has swiftly made its way across the world. There are vast assortments of techniques to recreate eyebrows. Microblading is a permanent makeup procedure with precision hair-like strokes. They are created with a nano microblade along the eyebrow region to create life-like simulated hair for an individual with missing or sparse looking eyebrows or to enhance, reshape or create a natural looking appearance on the brows using Phi “The Golden Ratio” and other tools, including a special compass that measures your face to find the anatomically correct eyebrow position and shape that is best suited for each individual face. This procedure entails the use of a nano microblade, which is dipped into a special pigment formulated for use in the eyebrow region that has been matched to the individual’s natural base hair colour and skin tone. Then strokes are created within a sketched outline of the brow that has been created and agreed upon beforehand. While only penetrating through the epidermis to the surface of the dermal layer approximately 1mm into the skin, the pigment is then deposited simultaneously with the creation of the hair like stroke, leaving a feathered outline which will further be filled in the same manner with fill-in strokes until the desired look is achieved. Approximately 2 passes are necessary to complete this process. Remember strokes that are placed only in the epidermis will surely vanish, they must make it to the dermal layer. If requested we can use topical anesthetics to limit discomfort. However, at SMP Micro, we normally don’t recommend it because it tends to affect the pigment retention. You will need to plan on spending 2 to 3 hours for the completion of this procedure.

We find combining microblading and shading techniques gives the best results. Shading also gives the brows a fuller, richer look and can hide unwanted imperfections within the brows. There are different variations of shading including manual and machine methods.

The same look can be achieved using a digital PMU machine that use needle cartridges, although this technique is called Hair-stroke, not microblading. Like microblading brow treatments, very similar results can be achieved using a machine by drawing precise individual hair strokes that can be very natural looking if done correctly with a steady hand. There are many cartridges available that come in a variety of diameters so that the thickness of each individual hair stroke can be customized to each client depending on the diameter of his/her natural hairs.

Aftercare is a major factor in keeping your new microbladed eyebrows. But like all other tattoos, they will fade depending on multiple factors (quality of pigment/ ink used, UV exposure, use of acids in skincare products, medications) but will never disappear completely. Tattooing is permanent, whether it is on the body or face.

Immediately, post-treatment eyebrows will appear darker than expected but will fade during the healing process over the following 4 weeks. The treatment is typically a 2-step application process. The initial appointment includes consultation and initial application. The second appointment is approximately 4 weeks post procedure to reapply any strokes that may have faded or disappeared and if needed adjust the colour. The 2nd application ensures that the pigment is retained properly and the brows have healed appropriately in that time. Keep in mind, periodically the eyebrows will need retouching to keep them looking their best. Remember all tattoos will fade over time.

You should always do your research when looking for a microblading artist. The artist should be fully licensed and insured. Ask to see all their certifications: Microblading, Blood-Borne Pathogen and General First Aid.

Considering a Career in Microblading?

In order to become a successful microblading artist, you will need to master the above techniques and understand these important variables. Depth and pressure of the stroke are one of the most important aspects of microblading. If you go too deep you will have possible permanent scarring, pigment migration or undesired blue or green discolouration. If you go too shallow, your work will disappear in a short period of time and not last. Proper depth is on the dermis layer approximately 1 mm.

Again, not all clients have the same skin density and thickness. Understanding this is a key factor in getting the depth and pressure correct and this takes experience to achieve. Note an equally important factor in getting proper uniform strokes is stretching the skin properly while you are creating the strokes. If you don’t stretch appropriately you will most certainly have poor and undesired results. So, stretch wisely.

You have to completely know your medium including your client. Every client is a different canvas and not all are the same. You have to treat every client individually. For this, you will need to know enough about skin types including diseases and conditions to properly complete a successful microblading procedure without issues. Knowing how to identify visual skin issues are a must. For instance, clients with visual capillary veins on the surface anywhere on their face are more prone to bleed during the procedure. Certain measures can be taken to slow down the excessive bleeding, like elevating the client’s upper half slightly while lowering the bottom half slightly. Or if your client has very oily skin you will have a problem with colour retention and migration of the pigment. For clients with oily skin, you will have the best results with water-based pigments because they dry quicker which means you will have no migration and better retention. Now for clients with dry skin, you can use glycerin based pigments which have great results. This understanding should be kept in mind for all permanent makeup and micropigmentation.

In some cases, clients may have allergies to certain substances or medical conditions that prevent this type of treatment. This is why we always recommend using a pre-procedure questionnaire to get the proper information necessary to properly complete a successful microblading treatment. More information equals better results and most of all prevents potential harm to you or your clients. If you have any doubt about your potential client's condition have them get a medical waiver clearing you to perform the microblading treatment. You should supply your client with an MSDS for all the products being used before he/she goes to their doctor so he/she can properly assess and clear the procedure. This will prevent any potential unwanted issues or further delay. All microblading and permanent makeup artists should take a blood-borne pathogen and basic first aid course. This protects you and your clients.