Evolution of Gender in Fragrance: Breaking Traditional Boundaries
Fragrance has long been a medium of personal expression, but it has also been tethered to the concept of gender. For decades, the fragrance industry has perpetuated a rigid divide between "masculine" and "feminine" scents, with floral, fruity notes typically associated with women, and woody, musky, or spicy scents marketed to men. However, this traditional binary view is shifting, with the rise of gender-neutral and unisex fragrances reflecting broader societal changes in attitudes towards gender.
The association of certain scents with gender has roots in both cultural and commercial influences. In the early 20th century, perfume was largely a luxury product, with high-end brands marketing floral and powdery fragrances to women to evoke elegance and femininity. At the same time, men were encouraged to wear aftershave, colognes, or scents that conveyed strength and virility through heavier, more earthy or leathery notes. These marketing strategies were a reflection of wider societal gender norms, where men and women were expected to occupy distinct roles and adopt different behaviours. Fragrance, in this sense, became a tool for reinforcing those roles.
In recent years, the fragrance landscape has evolved dramatically. The growing movement towards gender inclusivity and the dismantling of rigid gender norms in society have pushed the fragrance industry to reconsider how it categorises scent. The rise of unisex or gender-neutral fragrances has been a significant outcome of this shift. One of the early pioneers of this movement was Calvin Klein, whose launch of CK One in the 1990s marked a turning point. With its clean, citrusy scent and minimalist packaging, CK One was presented as a fragrance for everyone—regardless of gender. Since then, the demand for gender-neutral fragrances has continued to grow, with more and more brands developing scents that defy the old categories. Fragrance houses, such as Le Labo, Byredo, Floral Street, The Harmonist, BORNTOSTANDOUT, and Escentric Molecules, have embraced this trend, creating fragrances that blend traditionally masculine and feminine notes. Instead of defining scents by gender, these brands emphasise individuality and personal preference, allowing the wearer to define their relationship with the fragrance, rather than having it dictated by societal norms.
The shift towards gender inclusivity in fragrance is not just a marketing trend—it reflects a deeper cultural change. As gender identities become more fluid and diverse, many people feel empowered to express themselves beyond traditional gender binaries. Fragrance, as a deeply personal form of expression, is a key part of that evolution. The idea that scents can belong to a gender is increasingly seen as outdated; instead, people are choosing perfumes that resonate with their personal sense of self, regardless of how it is labelled. This new approach to fragrance is also reshaping the industry itself. Perfume creators are now less constrained by the need to fit within the boundaries of "masculine" or "feminine" categories. This freedom has led to a new era of creativity, where perfumers can experiment with unconventional blends and create scents that are complex, unique, and unbound by gender stereotypes.
Michelle Feeny, founder of Floral Street comments:
“At Floral Street we don't believe fragrance should have a gender and I've always said that the only thing that dictates that is the advertising campaign and marketing terms. I've always felt that you should be the celebrity of your own fragrance and that's why we've never used a 'face' to promote our brand. The way we communicate is to help educate consumers and encourage them to express their authentic self through scent. Our fragrances are all about enhancing your individuality and we've never used 'sex' to sell our products. Instead we feature motivating and relatable words connected to moods to inspire people to select a fragrance based on the way they feel.”
The world of fragrance is undergoing a transformative shift, as traditional gender labels lose their relevance and individuals are encouraged to embrace scents that align with their own identity, rather than what is expected of their gender. The rise of unisex and gender-neutral fragrances has opened up new possibilities for expression, moving beyond the simplistic dichotomy of masculine and feminine. In an era where personal identity is becoming increasingly fluid, fragrance is now a space for freedom, creativity, and individuality. Whether someone prefers a floral, spicy, oud, or woody scent, what truly matters is how it makes them feel. In this way, fragrance has become more inclusive, more empowering, and more reflective of the diverse world we live in today.
Carole Aymé - International Training Director at The Harmonist explains:
“For a long time, the fragrance industry was subject to strict standards, which associated certain fragrances with specific genders and age groups.
Historically, fragrances have generally been created and sold with clear differences: floral and light fragrances for women, woody and spicy fragrances for men. It is thanks to niche perfumeries that the trend towards neutral fragrances is developing. For example, The Harmonist's mixed, timeless fragrances offer a wider range of olfactory choices, allowing you to find your true olfactory identity. Beyond a more inclusive and tolerant approach to beauty and personality, the fragrances are infused with the Yin and Yang energies of the five elements to bring harmony and well-being to the wearer. It's a universal language. An invitation to travel, guided by our emotions, not gender.”
Floral Street Wild Vanilla Orchid
Vanilla, but not as you know it—this vegan perfume envelopes the scents of being wrapped in a warm cozy blanket.
A raw-edged confection of creamy vanilla beans, blossom, cassis, and citrus dressed in a bunch of just-plucked jasmine. Offsetting the lingering sweetness, bamboo and sandalwood bend and fold underneath.
Available at Floral Street for £110 | 100ml
The Harmonist Sun Force
Sun Force celebrates the vitality of the sun, capturing its vibrant energy and radiating it like the warmth of the sun. The fragrance conjures the scent of citrus spice and exotic woods, intensifying in the afternoon heat. The brightness of Hawaiian Pomelo and Saffron enlivens the enigmatic nature of Benzoin, Vetiver, and Sandalwood, unfolding into long-lasting citrus freshness. It’s an assured fragrance that energizes the wearer.
Available at Harrods for £285 | 50ml
BORNTOSTANDOUT Dirty Rice
Ode to intimacy. Think of the flicker of candlelight on bare skin, the soft whisper of silk sheets. Imagine the comforting scent of warm rice, laced with forbidden sweetness. Dirty rice opens with a flash of brightness – bergamot and almond create a vibrant, attention-grabbing accord. Yet, there's a playful warmth that hints at the complexity to come.
Available at Jovoy Paris UK for £160 | 50ml
Jimmy Choo I Want Choo Le Parfum
This amber floral woody fragrance opens with vibrant notes of pear and is adorned by the solar inflection of golden gardenia. The middle notes combine a creamy, warm heart with sweet jasmine, irresistible patchouli, and ambrette. The glamorous base notes, blending with moss, amber, sandalwood, and praline accord, give the creation a long-lasting trail.
Available at The Perfume Shop for £106 | 100ml
