Lash Lift: Step by Step

Ruth Atkins, Lash Expert and Salon System Educator shares her top tips on achieving the perfect Lash Lift.

What is a Lash Lift?

Lash Lifts have become popular recently thanks to a few things; social media, instant results, little to no maintenance and all in under an hour’s treatment.  It’s basically your own lashes…but better. By manipulating the shape and angle of your own lashes they are lifted in such a way that they appear much longer and fuller.  A client might have naturally long lashes but because they might be lying straight, they may look invisible unless they are mechanically curled and dressed with mascara. A Lash Lift will permanently give this dressed look which lasts the life of the lash which is between 6-8 weeks and give that client this wake up make up look which needs little to no maintenance and only needs repeating every 2 months.  Generally finished with a lash tint the lashes are then darker are glossier in appearance, which adds to the final result.

The Lash Lift Step by Step

The Lash Lift uses the same chemicals as a lash perm and the process is the same the main difference is the curling rods.  Flatter shaped pads are used instead of the round sticky rollers, which give more of a root lift and less of a curl.  These come in various sizes, which you choose depending on the length of the natural lash you are working on and the final look you want to achieve.  They are non-adhesive too so great for sensitive eyes and the glue that you use is latex free. The natural lash wants to come up the pad to about 80%, this is then glued to the eyelid as close to the lash line as possible.  I usually trim the pads to fit snuggly they usually sit nicely throughout the treatment then.  The pads can be re-used but I like to dispose after every use, but this is personal preference, so I don’t mind cutting mine. Once they are secure, proceed by sticking the lashes to the pad using the lash tool, making sure that the angle is correct and that they aren’t crossing over each other it’s better to spend time getting this part right and being really precise– as this part determines that outcome of the treatment. Add extra glue on the new lash growth to make sure even the smallest lashes are encompassed.

Once you’re happy everything is attached apply your step 1 lotion this is the chemical that will break down the disulphide bonds of the cuticle to be able to manipulate the hair into a different shape. You will need between 10-15 minutes depending on the structure of the hair you are working on.  Make sure you apply as close the waterline as possible without touching the skin and leave the tips of the lashes free from product. After the allotted time remove any excess product carefully with a cotton bud and repeat with the step 2 lotion. This chemical with fix the hair back into the new manipulated shape. Keep the product on for the same time as you did for step 1. Make sure you use a stopwatch don’t guess. If tinting remove any product from the lashes with cotton wool and proceed with a tint to the upper lashes. After this take your collagen/boost lotion and gently sweep it through the lashes to remove them from the pad. Clean the eyelid with a damp piece of cotton wool and advise the client to keep the lashes free from water for the next 24 hours as they are in a delicate state.

After this time they can treat their lashes as normal but as the lashes start to naturally fall out and be replaced with new growth they might feel the need to use a mechanical curler in between appointments. A lash boost or collagen oil can be used as a lash treatment at home but the Lash Lift treatment aftercare is minimal.