When to Say No to a Client for a SPMU Treatment

Our Columnist, Nez Hasan is a renowned semi-permanent makeup artist who has nearly 10 years' experience in the beauty industry. She has a passion for enhancing natural beauty and offers a range of treatments to an international client base.

As a SPMU (Semi-Permanent Makeup) artist, my top priority is ensuring my clients leave happy and satisfied with their results. However, there are times when the best decision is to say ‘no’ to a procedure. Knowing when to say no not only protects your professional reputation but also ensures the safety and wellbeing of your client. So, when is saying ‘no’ the right call? Here are some of my personal experiences and insights:

Medical Concerns
If a client has medical conditions such as uncontrolled diabetes, blood disorders, or is undergoing chemotherapy, SPMU may not be suitable. Always request medical clearance from a client when in doubt. Type 1 diabetes can increase the risk of infections and prolong healing, so I avoid performing treatments on clients unless they have medical clearance. In regards to chemotherapy, I prefer to perform SPMU treatments just before a client starts chemotherapy or early in the treatment process. However, I typically wait until their treatment is complete before proceeding. In the meantime, I create a ‘brow plan’ for them to first grow their brows naturally at home using my Brow Vitamin treatment and at home Miracle Hair and Brow mask. 

Skin Issues
Clients with active skin conditions like eczema, psoriasis, or open wounds in the treatment area should wait until their skin is fully healed. SPMU on compromised skin can lead to infections and poor pigment retention. 

I have treated clients with psoriasis, but this required experience since the skin is very thin and prone to peeling and bleeding. This can cause poor pigment retention and blurring with a grey undertone. If you are not highly experience, I advise against working a on skin with active conditions around the brow area. Always explain the risks to the client and let them make an informed decision.

Unrealistic Expectations
If a client requests results that are not achievable or suitable for their face shape and skin type, it’s important to educate them on realistic outcomes. If they remain insistent, politely decline the procedure.

For example, I’ve had clients request extremely arched or thin brows, which are difficult to achieve with Microblading. While Powder Brows are more suitable for defined looks, I prefer to start with a natural shape. Once trust is established during the top-up session, I may refine the arch or adjust the thickness slightly — but only if it aligns with my professional standards.

Recent Cosmetic Procedures
Clients who have had recent Botox, fillers, or chemical peels should wait the recommended time before undergoing SPMU. Performing the treatment too soon can lead to uneven results. A minimum of two weeks before or after Botox is ideal to let the brows settle properly.  

Pregnancy & Breastfeeding
While there is no direct evidence that SPMU affects pregnancy, most professionals avoid treating pregnant or breastfeeding clients as a precaution. Hormonal changes can also impact healing and pigment retention. I have treated pregnant women with medical clearance from their midwife or Doctor. Although, I prefer to limit treatments to women who are under five months pregnant to minimise potential risks. Maintaining strict hygiene and care is essential.

Mental Readiness
If a client seems overly anxious, indecisive, or impulsive, they may not be emotionally or mentally prepared for the treatment. 

I’ve made the mistake of treating anxious clients before, and it caused unnecessary stress for both of us. One client refused to leave the treatment room for nearly an hour after the procedure, even though the results were perfect. A month later, she returned happy and apologetic. Since then, I’ve learned to trust my instincts and turn down overly anxious clients.

Allergic Reactions
A patch test is always advisable. If a client shows signs of an allergic reaction, you must refuse the treatment to prevent severe complications. You can try alternative pigments if suitable, but never proceed without confirming tolerance.

Compromised Healing Ability
Clients with a history of keloid scarring or slow healing should be treated with caution, as SPMU could lead to undesirable scarring. Black skin is usually prone to keloids, and I was the first in the country 10 years ago to Microblade on black skin, even those with keloid scarring. I work carefully and avoiding deep incisions. Shading techniques tend to be less risky than microblading for such cases.

Clients Who Always Want More
Some clients continuously request darker, thicker, or more dramatic results, even after achieving a balanced and natural look. It is important to set boundaries and explain that overdoing SPMU can lead to an unnatural or unflattering appearance. If a client refuses to accept professional advice and keeps asking for excessive enhancements, it’s best to say no.

Saying ‘no’ to a client may feel uncomfortable, but it is a crucial part of being a responsible SPMU artist. Prioritising safety, realistic results, and ethical practice will ultimately strengthen your reputation and build long-term trust with clients. Your honesty and professionalism are more valuable than any short-term financial gain.