How to Layer Your Skincare According to a Skin Expert

Layering in skincare is a methodical approach to applying products in a specific sequence to maximize their effectiveness and penetration into the skin. This technique acknowledges that the skin's epidermis acts as a selective barrier, primarily allowing particles of certain sizes to penetrate while keeping out larger ones. By layering products from the thinnest, water-based formulas like toners and serums, to thicker, oil-based ones such as creams and balms, each product is given the optimal chance to absorb properly. This method not only ensures that the skin receives the full benefits of each product but also addresses specific skincare needs and concerns by customizing the routine. Understanding the science of layering is crucial for enhancing product absorption, achieving balanced hydration, and ultimately, maintaining healthy skin. We spoke to Dr. Nina Naidu, skin expert, plastic surgeon and founder of anokha, to learn more about layering and how to approach the technique to maximize skincare results.

How does skin absorb various types of products, and how does layering impact this absorption process?

Product absorption begins at the top layer of the skin, the epidermis. The epidermis acts as a barrier, and as such it keeps out harmful pathogens, controls temperature, and limits UV radiation while decreasing water loss. Very small particles in our skincare products are able to penetrate more deeply, while larger particles will sit on the top of the skin. Most products are working at just the level of the epidermis and the top level of the dermis. Layering plays a role here because a light, water-based product such as a toner will be absorbed into the skin quite quickly, while a heavy balm will occlude the skin to prevent water loss. Trying to apply a water-based product on top of a heavy balm or oil will result in the watery product literally running off the skin.

In your professional opinion, what is the most effective order for applying skincare products

Products work best if they are applied with the lightest and most water-soluble products first, followed by heavier, oil-soluble products. For example, start with a cleanser, followed by toner and a water-based serum. Then, move on to heavier lotions or creams (also water-soluble), and finish with an oil or balm. 

How should individuals adjust their layering routine to accommodate specific skin types or concerns, such as oily skin, dry skin, or sensitivity?

The layering order won't change for each of these types, but the specific products used will. Oily skin types will generally skip the oil and balm, while drier skin types will need all layers for optimal hydration. Sensitive skin needs vary from one person to the next. In these cases, you'll need to look at your skin and evaluate what triggers sensitivity in order to avoid it. Is the trigger scent, specific active ingredients, or an allergen? If any products contain that trigger, just remove it from the regimen.

What are the key differences between morning and evening layering routines, and how do you recommend incorporating products like sunscreen or night creams?

The morning and evening ingredients are generally quite similar, with just a few differences. Sunscreen should be applied in the mornings after all water-based products have been applied. Oils and makeup can then be applied over the sunscreen. Double cleansing, in which an initial cleanse is done with an oil-based cleanser followed by a water-based cleanser, is typically done in the evenings to remove sunscreen and makeup. The evening cleanse is also the ideal time to finish with a heavier moisturizer which is slowly absorbed during sleep. 

What are the most common mistakes people make when layering skincare products, and how can these be rectified?

Most mistakes are made in not knowing in which order to apply products. Just start with the lightest and most watery products first, then move on to the heavier and oilier products at the end.

Considering Anokha's unique blend of natural and clinical approaches, how does the brand envision the ideal layering of its products, and are there specific products you recommend starting with?

When starting with natural products, it's best to start simple as these products tend to be more concentrated and may cause a skin reaction if multiple products are changed at once. Our basic trio is the oatmeal cleansing milk, lotus flower & rosewater toner, and jasmine serum. Start by just changing out your cleanser for a week. If all goes well, switch out the toner after a week. If your skin is still happy, change your serum. This is the most basic cleansing, toning, and moisturizing routine and is well-tolerated by those with even sensitive skin.

Anokha Bakuchiol & Pomegranate Facial Oil (£112)

Are there any innovative ingredients or techniques you've incorporated specifically into Anokha to enhance the effects of layering skincare products?

Most of us simply don't have time for lengthy skincare routines with multiple products. For this reason, anokha was designed to be adapted to the user's specific needs. Some users will need just a three-step routine, while others will need five. One of our more clinical products, the bakuchiol & pomegranate facial oil, contains a higher number of active ingredients to address multiple skin concerns. The bakuchiol oil uses retinol alternative bakuchiol to address fine lines and wrinkles, decrease pigmentation, and acne; coenzyme Q10, an antioxidant that stimulates the production of collagen and elastin; and bisabolol, an anti-inflammatory that helps to heal skin while enhancing absorption of other ingredients. 

Lastly, Dr. Naidu, could you give us a glimpse into your personal skincare routine and how you incorporate the principles of layering into your daily regimen?

My personal routine is quite simple but with a focus on hydration. I use my oatmeal cleansing milk, lotus flower & rosewater toner, a Centella asiatica antioxidant, jasmine serum, and my lotus & lychee facial crème. In the mornings, I then move to sunscreen and mix a few drops of my bakuchiol & pomegranate facial oil with a drop or two of liquid foundation which allows both products to glide on more effectively. In the evenings, I wash my face when I arrive home from work as a way of mentally removing the day (and because I'm always too tired by the time I get to bed). I start with a double-cleanse using my rice bran & pomegranate facial cleansing oil and oatmeal cleansing milk, and then finish the routine as I do for the morning. I'm obviously not using sunscreen or foundation at night, but I do apply a few drops of my bakuchiol & pomegranate facial oil to finish.