LED Light Therapy - Is There Truth Behind the Hype?

Emma Coleman, PBL Magazine columnist, is an Aesthetics and Dermatology RGN with award-winning clinics across London and Kent. She frequently speaks and writes about her passion: taking a holistic approach to skin health, and has launched her own natural, antioxidant skincare line.

Many of us have read about the shift towards LED light in home skincare routines and clinic treatments, but have you ever wondered whether this technology actually works? I've done the research for you to make it easier.

The good news is that Light Emitting Diode (LED) technology is not a new fad; it was actually invented in 1962. In the 1970s, NASA compared the effects of LED and fluorescent lights on plant growth in space. LED was far superior, leading to numerous trials investigating its effects on skin at a cellular level.

So, what does it feel like?

Unlike traditional lighting, LED does not emit heat. It consists of reflective surfaces on which specialised circuits are placed, each emitting a narrow spectrum of light. Although it is not hot, it is extremely bright, and some devices include built-in eye protection; otherwise, goggles should be worn. The composition of the circuits in each bulb determines the colour and wavelength of light produced.

What do the colours mean?

The spectrum of light in advanced LED devices ranges from purple through to red, with each colour representing a different wavelength and, most importantly, depth when applied to the skin. Choosing the correct wavelength for individual needs is crucial in achieving the best results, whether you are visiting a professional in a clinic or using an at-home device. Skin penetration and absorption increase proportionally with wavelength; the purple to orange spectrum of light reaches the deep dermis, while red LED light penetrates as far as the hypodermis, the layer beneath the dermis.

What do the studies say?

I have reviewed numerous recent studies and found that the most widely researched wavelengths in aesthetics and dermatology are Red and Blue LED. Red LED, known for penetrating deeper skin layers, has been proven to increase the rate of cell turnover, which can improve everything from scarring to lines, wrinkles, pigmentation, skin firmness, and healing. Regular exposure to Blue LED light reduces acne-forming bacteria on the skin’s surface and helps heal and prevent acne breakouts. It can also reduce skin redness and inflammation. Orange light, close to infrared, can help heal eczema and psoriasis. Although green and yellow lights are less researched, some evidence suggests they can aid in skin healing and reduce scarring.

Are there any side effects?

Apart from possibly feeling a bit flushed afterwards, LED is a low-risk treatment. However, if you are visiting a clinic, do your homework to ensure they understand the treatment and your skin's needs.

How should I use LED Light?

I recommend a monthly treatment with LED if visiting a clinic. At-home devices are milder, so I suggest using them three times weekly for 10 minutes. LED should be applied to bare skin for optimum penetration, so resist the temptation to apply serum and moisturiser until afterwards, and always wear sunscreen daily.