The Powerhouse Ingredient that is Glutathione
Glutathione, a tripeptide composed of three amino acids—cysteine, glycine, and glutamic acid—is a potent antioxidant widely revered for its therapeutic potential in various medical fields. In recent years, its use in skincare has garnered significant attention, owing to its impressive capabilities in promoting skin health and combating signs of ageing.
Glutathione exists in two forms: reduced (GSH) and oxidised (GSSG). The reduced form, GSH, is the active state capable of neutralising free radicals, which are unstable molecules that cause cellular damage. The body's ability to maintain a high GSH-to-GSSG ratio is crucial for optimal cellular function and defence against oxidative stress.
"Glutathione is a naturally occurring molecule in our bodies, composed of glycine, glutamic acid, and cysteine. It penetrates deep into the cellular level of the skin to combat oxidative damage. Glutathione is highly beneficial, firstly, as a potent antioxidant, it protects cells from harmful toxins and clears the body of damaging free radicals, promoting improved skin health. Secondly, Glutathione reduces the activity of a melanin-producing enzyme called tyrosinase. This reduction in melanin can help prevent and treat skin issues like hyperpigmentation and melasma” explains Kelly Saynor, aesthetic nurse, NIP (Nurse Independent Prescriber), Clinical Director and Founder of Medica Forte, owner of The Perfect Peel and Glutaceuticals.
Glutathione chemical structure
As an antioxidant, glutathione plays a pivotal role in neutralising reactive oxygen species (ROS) and other free radicals. ROS are by-products of cellular metabolism and environmental stressors such as UV radiation and pollution. Accumulation of ROS leads to oxidative stress, which accelerates skin ageing, causing wrinkles, fine lines, and loss of elasticity. Glutathione's ability to donate electrons stabilises these reactive molecules, thereby mitigating oxidative damage.
Glutathione is integral to the body's detoxification processes. It conjugates with toxins, heavy metals, and carcinogens, rendering them more water-soluble and facilitating their excretion. In skincare, this detoxification property translates to a reduction in the accumulation of harmful substances on the skin, promoting a clearer and healthier complexion.
One of the most celebrated benefits of glutathione in skincare is its role in melanin synthesis. Melanin is the pigment responsible for skin colour. Glutathione inhibits the enzyme tyrosinase, which is critical in the production of melanin. By modulating this pathway, glutathione helps in reducing hyperpigmentation, melasma, and age spots, leading to a more even skin tone and these properties mean that it is appealing to a large demographic.
“Many patient demographics can benefit from glutathione due to its antioxidative and melanin regulating properties. Glutathione is naturally found in the body, but peaks at around age 35-40, before it starts depleting. This depletion is the reason we start to see the common signs of ageing such as fine lines and wrinkles - there is a bio-hacking element to glutathione as it slows this process down, making it ideal for patients in their 20’s and beyond. Menopausal skins can also benefit from glutathione-based treatments or products – hormonal skin can experience excess pigmentation, or a lack of hydration and collagen. Meanwhile, darker skin tones can see real benefits in using glutathione, which helps in lightening dark spots, evening out skin tone, and reducing the appearance of melasma and sunspots. Unlike many ingredients, glutathione has long-term benefits while also providing immediate results with application through skincare and/or peels.”
Glutathione also exhibits anti-inflammatory properties, making it effective in managing conditions like acne and other inflammatory skin disorders. By reducing inflammation and regulating sebum production, glutathione helps to prevent acne breakouts and soothe irritated skin.
Formulation and Stability
Despite its potent benefits, formulating glutathione in skincare products poses challenges. Glutathione is inherently unstable and prone to oxidation, which can diminish its efficacy. Advanced delivery systems, such as encapsulation in liposomes or nanoparticles, have been developed to enhance its stability and bioavailability. Additionally, combining glutathione with other stabilising antioxidants like vitamin C and E can synergistically enhance its effectiveness .
"Glutathione is a large molecule that requires a high degree of stability. We source high-quality glutathione for our Perfect Peel with a guaranteed level of purity and potency. It's paramount we utilise a delivery system that protects the ingredient from degradation and ensures it reaches the target area at a cellular level. To ensure we see these results consistently, we conduct stability testing to confirm the product maintains its potency throughout its shelf life."
Safety and Considerations
Glutathione is generally considered safe for topical use. However, as with any active ingredient, potential users should perform a patch test to rule out any allergic reactions. It is also essential to use products containing glutathione as directed, as excessive use can lead to skin irritation in some individuals. "Luckily glutathione is non-irritating, so it can be topically applied on all skin types including sensitive skin. It can be directly applied to the skin after cleansing the face both in the morning as well as in the evening. It is not photosensitive, but applying SPF on top is always recommended” adds Kelly
Glutathione stands out as a multifaceted ingredient in the realm of skincare that has been largely untapped. Its unparalleled antioxidant properties, ability to detoxify, and regulation of melanin synthesis underscore its status as a powerhouse ingredient. For formulators and beauty professionals, understanding and leveraging the science of glutathione can lead to the development of superior skincare products that meet the evolving needs of consumers.