What's In and Out in Beauty for the Year 2024

In 2024, the beauty scene is shifting with fresh trends and smarter skincare choices, reflecting a blend of style and substance. This year, we're seeing a mix of innovation and elegance reshape what it means to be on-trend in beauty. From the essential daily use of SPF to the understated charm of Balletcore nails, the trends are as practical as they are stylish. As we move away from outdated practices, we get insights from the experts who are at the forefront of these changes.

What’s in?

366 Days of SPF

The essential nature of SPF is more prominent than ever. Kimberley Medd from Face The Future articulates, "SPF is the non-negotiable skincare step that everyone should be incorporating into their regime regardless of age, skin type or skin tone. The sun emits harmful rays year-round, even on cloudy days. There are two types of sun rays that can damage your skin in different ways. UVB rays are responsible for sunburns while UVA rays can lead to aging and the development of skin cancers. Sun exposure depletes collagen, which keeps the skin smooth and firm. It can dilate blood vessels to give skin a red tone. It also causes the brown pigment in the skin to be more pronounced, which can make the skin look blotchy and uneven in tone. It also creates something called elastotic material, which creates a ‘cobblestone’ appearance in the skin”.

UV exposure is a major cause of premature skin aging, often referred to as photoaging. This includes wrinkles, fine lines, and hyperpigmentation. A study published in the Annals of Internal Medicine in 2013 demonstrated that regular sunscreen use protects against photoaging. Participants who used sunscreen daily showed 24% less skin aging than those who used sunscreen intermittently. The need for daily SPF to protect against collagen depletion and uneven skin tone is now a staple, not just a summer accessory.

Ceramides: The Unsung Hero of Skincare

Ceramides are a major component of the skin's lipid barrier, found in the outermost layer of the skin (stratum corneum). They play a crucial role in forming a protective layer that limits moisture loss and protects against environmental damage. Topical ceramides in skincare products are formulated to mimic the skin's natural lipids. They are typically combined with other lipids like cholesterol and fatty acids in a ratio that mirrors the skin's own composition, which allows them to effectively integrate into the skin's barrier. By replenishing the skin's natural ceramides, these topical formulations help restore the barrier function in cases where it has been compromised, such as in dry or eczema-prone skin.

Ceramides, as explained by Julia Marinkovich of COSRX, are critical in maintaining skin health. "Many people know of collagen and hyaluronic acid being a naturally derived in the skin but not that ceramides are also naturally occurring. Ceramides are the glue of your skin, known as being in the family of lipids ceramides hold your skin cells together and protect the skin barrier. They make up over 50% of your skins composition so its no wonder that this is an essential part of keeping skin healthy. A healthy skin barrier is essential to keeping skin glowing and beautiful. In your 30s skin starts to lose in increasing amount of ceramides meaning skin barrier breaks down leading to thinning, fine lines, dryness and moisture loss”.

Balletcore: The Refined Nail Aesthetic

2024 is the year of Balletcore in nail trends, shifting from Barbiecore's boldness to subtlety. Tinu Bello, a Senior Mylee Ambassador, describes it as "subtle and creamy pinks, frosted nudes, and milky whites, in short and clean shapes. We will see an upgrade to the trend in 2024, with baroque embellishments, a glazed finish, and tiny adornments like bows, flowers, and gems. The look is more about vibe than design, so you’ll want to start by asking your nail technician for a sheer pink base and ask them to paint two coats". It's a trend that prioritizes a softer palette and refined designs.

Collagen Banking: Investing in Future Skin

Collagen is a protein that is crucial for maintaining the skin’s structure, elasticity, and firmness. It's found in the skin, bones, and connective tissues and is responsible for giving skin its youthful, plump appearance. As we age, our bodies produce less collagen, leading to signs of aging like wrinkles, fine lines, and sagging skin. The idea behind collagen banking is to maximize the body's ability to produce collagen while it's still efficient at doing so, primarily during the 20s and 30s. By focusing on collagen production at a younger age, the theory is that it can help maintain firmer, smoother skin for a longer time, possibly delaying the onset of visible aging signs.

Collagen banking is emerging as a proactive approach to skincare. ABG Lab Key Opinion Leader Dr. Aamer Khan highlights its importance: "Collagen banking is a preventative treatment designed to boost our collagen supply during our 20's and 30's when our bodies are most efficient at making collagen. Whilst best to start in your 20s and 30s, it's still good to do when you're over 40”.

Emphasis on Eye Care

The skin around the eyes is unique compared to the rest of the face; it's thinner, has fewer oil glands, and lower levels of collagen and elastin, making it more susceptible to dryness, fine lines, and wrinkles. This area ages faster due to these factors, combined with the stress of constant facial expressions. Aging in the eye region manifests as dark circles, puffiness, and increased sagging, primarily due to weakened tissues and muscles, as well as thinning skin. Addressing these signs of aging effectively requires specialized eye creams and gentle care, with an emphasis on hydration, collagen support, and sun protection to maintain the delicate skin's health and appearance.

Sonia Amoroso, Founder, Freezeframe shares "If I was asked what is the most important factor in caring for you skin in 2024, it would be this. If you use nothing else – make sure you use a good eye cream. Your eyes may be the windows to the soul, but window panes are flimsier than bricks. Skin around the eyes doesn’t have the ability to produce the vital lipids needed to keep skin moist, so eyelids are much more prone to dryness than other parts of the face. Add these two facts together and it’s easy to see why eyes are the very first area to show signs of aging. Moving into our 30s and 40s, skin is thinner, and muscles can become weaker. Collagen loss also increases at a dramatic rate at this time. This can lead to a couple of issues, both produced by the muscle and skin matrix weakening. First, the fat that naturally supports the eyes can sink to the area beneath the eyes. With thinner skin and a weaker skin matrix, fat can bulge through to appear as what we know as bags. The same, but somewhat more liquid effect can happen when fluids accumulate around the eyes. With looser skin and without the thicker layers of skin keeping it all in place, the under-eye area can literally “puff out” resulting in what we know as puffiness”.

Gentle Alternatives to Retinol

Retinol, while effective for anti-aging and skin renewal, is not suitable for every skin type due to its potential to cause irritation, redness, dryness, and peeling, especially in sensitive or reactive skin. It also increases sun sensitivity, which can be problematic for those prone to sunburn or who are not consistent with sunscreen use. Moreover, retinol is generally advised against during pregnancy and breastfeeding, and may not be suitable for individuals with certain skin conditions like rosacea or eczema. For those whose skin cannot tolerate retinol, gentler alternatives like bakuchiol may be recommended.

Holistic Therapist and Head of Education at SBC Skincare Adele O'Donoghue comments, "In 2024, I predict that instead of Retinol, more gentle alternatives to anti-ageing will be increasingly popular, with Bakuchiol set to be a firm favourite. Bakuchiol acts very similarly on a cellular level to Retinol, in that it has the ability to reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, even skin tone and texture, and restore firmness, without causing irritation. Bakuchiol has also been shown to increase collagen levels in the skin, meaning that it not only targets existing signs of ageing, but can help to prevent further signs.  Bakuchiol is also completely vegan, deriving from the leaves and seeds of the Psoralea Corylifolia Plant – perfect for anyone looking for a pl ant-based alternative to their regular Retinol – and does not cause skin sensitivity to the sun (but that doesn’t mean you can skip the SPF!)”.

What’s Falling Out of Favour?

Rethinking Salicylates in Skincare

Salicylic acid is a beta-hydroxy acid (BHA) commonly used in skincare products for its ability to exfoliate the skin. It works by penetrating into the pores to dissolve the bonds that hold dead skin cells together, facilitating the removal of these cells and unclogging pores. This makes it particularly effective in treating acne-prone skin, as it helps to reduce inflammation, prevent breakouts, and promote a clearer complexion. Additionally, salicylic acid has keratolytic properties, which means it can soften and remove the top layer of skin, aiding in the treatment of conditions like psoriasis or dandruff. Its ability to exfoliate and cleanse pores at a deeper level distinguishes it from other exfoliating agents, but its potency also means it may not be suitable for very sensitive skin types.

Sharon Maughan of FaceWise warns against the overuse of salicylic acid. "Salicylic acid, in its concentrated form and widely used in a range of cosmetics can lead to a toxic overload. Although many people pose no reaction, in most severe cases the toxic overload can affect the respiratory system, flare sensitive skin and cause outbreaks of eczema" she cautions. The beauty world is turning towards gentler, more nourishing alternatives.

Changing Skincare Habits

Cigdem Kemal-Yilmaz, Chemical Engineer and Founder of  Skin Masterclass has three skincare icks she wants us all to leave in 2024. She says:  

Re-using Towels

As pathogens, oils and dead skin cells can collect on towels, using the same towel for your face and body after a shower can clog pores, cause breakouts and increase your risk of skincare irritation. Not to mention that the body or haircare products that you use can disrupt the delicate facial microbiome if they are transferred to your face through re-using towels. Having a separate, clean towel that is washed and replaced every couple of days for drying your face is key. However, for those prone to acne, you should be replacing your facial towel every day. Make sure that you only use towels that have been left to dry completely in a place with little moisture or humidity as damp towels encourage mould or bacteria that can exacerbate breakouts. 

Missing Your Neck

The neck is a body part that we tend to miss out when it comes to skincare, but it is just as important to take care of the skin on your neck as your face, particularly as it shows the first signs of ageing faster. This is because the skin on the neck contains less collagen, no oil, and is much thinner than the face, making it prone to dryness, sensitivity, sun damage and sagging. To keep your neck skin healthy, make sure to bring any products that you would normally apply to your face down to the neck and chest area.

Forgetting To Cleanse

One of the most common skincare habits wreaking havoc on your face is forgetting to remove your makeup at the end of the day and not properly cleansing your skin. Particularly for those who regularly exercise, sweat and make-up can clog pores, creating the perfect storm for breakouts or acne! Remember, clean skin is healthy skin, so double cleansing is your best friend. Firstly, take the day off with a make-up remover or cleansing balm and follow-up with a cleanser containing active ingredients such as Ceramides, Niacinamide or Hyaluronic Acid for a truly thorough clean with skin-boosting properties.