Answering 5 Frequently Asked Questions About Retinoids

Our Columnist, Dr Dev Patel is a globally reputed aesthetic physician, the founder of CellDerma and winner of multiple industry awards - he is an ambassador of clinical excellence and lives and works by his motto ‘strive to be better every day’. Specialising in facial aesthetics, his extensive knowledge and background in dermatology have motivated him to develop a profound knowledge of skincare technology. Today he continues to work in his clinic and teaches at his training facility ‘Perfect Skin Academy. Dr Dev shares 5 frequently asked questions about Retinoids and his answers.

Can I use retinol if I have sensitive skin?

Retinol, a derivative of vitamin A, is one of the most well-known retinoids. The only absolute contraindications to using any retinoid are pregnancy and breastfeeding. While retinol is generally better tolerated than its prescription-strength counterparts, it can still cause common side effects such as redness, dryness, and irritation (often referred to as retinoid dermatitis). For individuals with sensitive skin, these side effects are not only more likely but may also persist longer.

If you have sensitive skin, you might need to start—and potentially remain—on a lower strength, such as 0.25%, or even avoid retinol altogether. However, it’s important to note that retinol is a 1st generation retinoid, like tretinoin, which was first introduced in the 1940s. Since then, newer generations of retinoids have been developed, and we are now in the era of 4th generation retinoids. These newer formulations provide potency but with significantly less irritation.

One product I recommend is CellDerma’s Retin-ACE, which contains a cutting-edge granactive retinoid called hydroxypinacolone retinoate (HPR). This retinoid has direct receptor activity, meaning it doesn’t need to be broken down by the skin like retinol, resulting in greater potency with a remarkably low side-effect profile. In fact, in two independent studies involving 40 patients—50% of whom had sensitive skin—none reported any side effects from using Retin-ACE. Additionally, the formula includes hydrating, anti-inflammatory, and antioxidant ingredients, which help soothe even the most fragile skin barriers, making it an excellent option for those with sensitive skin.

Can I use retinol in summer months? 

If your skin tolerates retinol well, there’s no need to stop during the summer months. Contrary to a widespread misconception, retinoids do not inherently increase your sensitivity to the sun. In fact, they have been shown to be photo-protective. The misconception likely stems from the fact that if someone experiences retinoid dermatitis (a weakened skin barrier), their skin becomes more vulnerable to UV radiation. However, retinoids themselves actually protect the skin by minimising collagen breakdown from UV exposure and promoting new collagen production.

Personally, I always bring my Retin-ACE with me when I go on sunny holidays. I apply it at night, and its mode of action lasts for about 18 hours, ensuring that my skin remains protected. Coupled with my morning routine of vitamin C and sunscreen, it provides an added layer of defence. Some people advocate for a “retinoid break” during the summer, but I’ve seen no compelling evidence to support this. There have been suggestions that such breaks may aid in cellular autophagy (a process of cellular cleansing), but again, I have yet to see evidence confirming this theory.

Should I be using retinol around my eyes? 

Some of the earliest signs of ageing can be seen around the eyes, making the regenerative benefits of a retinoid even more valuable in this area. With retinol specifically, the typical recommended strength is around 0.3% as stronger retinols will likely cause side effects on the thin and delicate skin around your eyes. More potent retinoids, higher up the ladder, would certainly be contraindicated around the eyes, unless under strict medical guidance. Retin-ACE is the only formula I am aware of that dispels this myth and can be used even in the delicate eye area. Obviously, if someone was to experience any irritation, they should reduce frequency to the level they find tolerable. 

What are the safest forms of retinoid?

Retinoids exist in a hierarchy of strength and effectiveness. At the lowest end are derivatives like retinyl palmitate, which is very safe but unfortunately does little to activate retinoid receptors—the primary mechanism by which retinoids deliver their skin benefits. Personally, I wouldn’t recommend spending money on retinyl palmitate, as its effects are minimal.

For a balance between clinical efficacy and a favorable side-effect profile, 3rd and especially 4th generation retinoids are the way to go. A good example of a 3rd generation retinoid is adapalene, which is often used in the NHS for acne treatment because it is far less irritating than tretinoin. My personal favorite, though, is HPR.  However, it’s important to remember that not all formulations of an ingredient are created equal. The effectiveness of a retinoid can vary significantly based on the method of manufacture, so simply reading the label may not give consumers a clear idea of how effective a product will be.

What can I do to repair my skin if I’ve overdone it with the retinol?

If you’re experiencing side effects from retinol use and are under the care of a skin clinic, follow their advice. They may recommend pushing through the irritation to allow your skin to adjust. However, as a general rule, if you’re suffering from noticeable irritation, it’s best to stop using the retinol and focus on healing your skin barrier.

Look for products that contain copper tripeptide-1 and growth factors, as these are excellent for promoting skin healing. Hydrating ingredients like ceramides and glycerin are also key to repairing the barrier. While most hydrating serums and creams will help, if you want a more rapid resolution, I recommend CellDerma’s GF5 Next Generation, which combines over 20 active ingredients, including growth factors and ceramides, to speed up recovery.

During this healing phase, avoid products that contain L-ascorbic acid (a strong form of vitamin C) and harsh exfoliants or acid cleansers. Wait until the redness and flaking subside before reintroducing these into your routine.