The Truth Behind TikTok's Viral 'Slugging' Skincare Routine

Slugging is a new skincare trend which has jumped to the top of everyone's skincare feed. It involves coating the skin in petrolatum or Vaseline as the final step in a skincare routine to enhance glow and hydration. However, many internet skincare trends have negative consequences for skin health and are not backed by scientific rationale. Dermoi's Chief Scientific Officer, Eve Casha, MSc in Pharmaceutical Formulation breaks down what you need to know about slugging.

The Basics of the Skin Barrier

The skin's function within the body is to create a strong barrier to the outside world. It is the first line of defence for the immune system and it regulates our body temperature and water loss.

The skin is composed of many layers, however the outmost layer - the skin barrier, ​ is composed of dead skin cells (anucleated corneocytes) surrounded by a lipid matrix. Any disruption in this barrier leads to inflammation, water loss (dryness), and can affect DNA synthesis and lipid production in the skin.  With harsh weather, alcohol, stress, cigarettes, and/or poor diets, it is very easy to disturb this barrier. This not only leads to inflammation, but also causes ​ increases in transepidermal water loss (TEWL) leading to dullness and dryness.

The Formulation Science of Slugging

Why is Vaseline used for slugging?

Vaseline is used because it is an occlusive agent. Occlusives are oil-based ingredients that form a water-resistant layer or film over the skin's surface. ​ They help to reinforce and repair a damaged skin barrier, but they also trap water into the skin. Occlusive agents can instantly help to restore suppleness and glow to the skin. ​ This is why many are seeing positive results with slugging.

In addition, occlusive agents are essential when using a skincare routine with humectants. Humectants, such as hyaluronic acid, sodium PCA or glycerin, are ingredients that bind water and draw them into the skin. In certain humidity conditions, if humectants are not combined occlusive agents, they can actually draw water from the deeper layers of the skin (dermis) and increase water loss.

Are There Risks with Slugging?

While the risks of slugging are relatively low, there can be some negatives.

The main risks with slugging is stimulating formation of acne.

Vaseline forms an extremely thick film over the skin that blocks the release of oil and cellular debris from a hair follicle. ​ This clogs a hair follicle and forms acne. For those who are prone to acne or congested skin, avoiding slugging or opting for a non-comedogenic occlusive agent may be a great solution. In addition, Vaseline also blocks entry of hydration into the skin from the outside. ​ When used very frequently, it can make the skin feel dryer over time.

​So . . . Should You Try Slugging?

Properly hydrating the skin is essential in any skincare routine. If you feel your skin is particularly dry or feel your skin barrier is compromised, this may be a new trend you will want to give try (perhaps with a better alternative to Vaseline as mentioned above)

However, this trend is NOT essential in a skincare routine and in fact, occlusive agents are found in most hydrating lotions and creams in the skincare market. Slugging does not replace the need for many other important practices for healthy skin such as gentle cleansing and daily broad-spectrum sun protection.