What the Experts Want You to Know About Chemical v Physical Peels
Exfoliation is a key element of any effective skincare regimen, essential for maintaining a glowing, healthy complexion. Whether you're looking to clear clogged pores, soften skin texture, or simply refresh your skin, exfoliation helps to remove dead cells and encourage cellular turnover. There are two main methods of exfoliation: chemical and physical. Each approach offers unique benefits, but understanding their differences is critical to making informed choices for your skincare routine, and exfoliating your skin.
But to understand the difference, first we need to break down the basics as to the process of exfoliation. "Exfoliation is the removal of dead skin cells from the outer layer of the skin” explains Dr Nina Naidu, founder of anokha. “Exfoliation can be performed through one of two methods, chemical or mechanical. In mechanical exfoliation, a tool or a scrub is used to physically remove dead skin cells. Chemical exfoliation, in contrast, uses chemicals such as acids or enzymes to dissolve dead skin cells”.
Chemical peels use acids or enzymes to dissolve the bonds between dead skin cells, allowing them to be shed easily without the need for abrasive scrubbing. These can be divided into three categories based on the depth of exfoliation: superficial, medium, and deep. Each category has its own specific chemical compositions designed for different skin concerns and levels of sensitivity.
Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs) such as glycolic acid and lactic acid are popular choices for superficial chemical peels. AHAs are water-soluble and best suited for targeting surface-level concerns such as mild pigmentation, fine lines, and dullness.
Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHAs), primarily salicylic acid, are oil-soluble and penetrate deeper into the skin, making them an excellent choice for treating acne, blackheads, and congested pores.
Enzyme Peels (e.g., papain from papaya) work by breaking down proteins in dead skin cells, making them particularly gentle and suitable for sensitive skin.
Chemical exfoliants work by disrupting the bonds (desmosomes) between dead skin cells in the epidermis, leading to their shedding. This process is highly controlled and can be fine-tuned to target specific skin issues without causing unnecessary trauma to the skin.
According to Debbie Thomas, founder of D.Thomas Clinic, chemical peels offer a level of precision that physical peels lack. "I am definitely on the chemical exfoliation team. The main reason is that you have more control over the level of exfoliation. Also, physical exfoliation can cause micro-tears in the skin, which are more likely to allow micro irritants to sensitise the skin." She emphasizes that moderation and consistency are key, as over-exfoliating, especially with stronger options, can compromise the skin's barrier and lead to issues like inflammation, pigmentation, and acne flare-ups.
We recommend…
Evidens de Beaute The New Skin Peeling Gel
This peeling gel offers a gentle yet highly effective exfoliation using enzymatic action from ingredients like ficin and subtilisin, which help remove dead skin cells without causing irritation, making it suitable for sensitive skin. What sets it apart is the inclusion of Triple Collagen, a key ingredient that supports skin firmness while promoting cell turnover for a more radiant and refined complexion. Its gel-like texture feels soothing and is easy to rinse off, making it a luxurious and quick addition to any skincare routine. The result is softer, smoother skin with an even glow.
Available at Harrods.
PCA SKIN Micro Peel At-Home Kit
This at-home peel kit provides a professional-grade treatment that rejuvenates and brightens the skin, making it an excellent option for those looking for visible results without visiting a clinic. It includes a three-step process: cleansing, treating, and protecting. The Enzymatic Treatment, enriched with enzymes and AHAs, gently exfoliates to remove dead skin cells and impurities, smoothing and brightening the complexion. The detoxifying charcoal mask also helps purify the skin by drawing out excess oil and debris from pores. What makes this kit stand out is its focus on hydration and protection, using a rejuvenating serum and SPF 50 to ensure the skin is well-nourished and safeguarded from UV damage after the peel.
Available at PCA Skin.
Votary Sensitive Resurfacing Peel
This resurfacing peel is designed specifically for sensitive skin while delivering potent exfoliation. It features 10% lactic acid, which is the maximum concentration allowed under EU regulations for at-home use, making it highly effective at sloughing away dead skin cells, brightening the complexion, and reducing fine lines. What sets it apart from other peels is its blend of super seed extracts, including chia seed and horse chestnut, which calm and hydrate the skin, helping to avoid the irritation often associated with strong peels.
Available now at Votary.
Antipodes Glory Vitamin C Skin Glow Toner
The Antipodes Glory Vitamin C Skin Glow Toner stands out as a triple-action powerhouse designed to brighten, exfoliate, and even out skin tone. Its key ingredient, Kakadu plum, delivers a potent dose of natural vitamin C, known for its high antioxidant properties, which not only promotes a radiant complexion but also helps reduce pigmentation and signs of aging. What makes this toner unique as a chemical exfoliant is the inclusion of lime caviar, a source of gentle AHAs that slough off dead skin cells to reveal smoother, more luminous skin. Additionally, peptides like Melanostatine 5 work to correct uneven skin tone without irritating the skin, making this an ideal option for those seeking an effective yet gentle exfoliating toner
Available now at Sephora.
Dermalogica Liquid Peelfoliant
This exfoliating treatment stands out for its potent blend of AHAs, BHA, PHAs, and fruit enzymes, providing professional-grade results in an at-home peel. Its unique formulation includes glycolic acid, lactic acid, salicylic acid, and gluconolactone, offering a combination of exfoliation that removes dead skin cells while unclogging pores and improving skin texture. Additionally, tranexamic acid helps prevent pigmentation and hydrates the skin, ensuring the treatment doesn't cause excessive dryness.
Available at Dermalogica.
Minimalist AHA BHA 10% Face Exfoliator
This exfoliating serum sets itself apart with its combination of 10% AHAs (glycolic and lactic acid) and BHA (salicylic acid), offering multi-level exfoliation that targets both surface skin cells and deeper pore congestion. What makes it unique is its ability to balance effective exfoliation with hydration, thanks to the inclusion of hyaluronic acid, which prevents dryness often associated with acid treatments. It addresses multiple concerns such as dullness, uneven texture, and blemishes by promoting cell turnover and clearing clogged pores, while also being fragrance-free and non-comedogenic, making it suitable for a variety of skin type.
Available at Face the Future.
Subtle Energies Pomegranate Enzyme Mask
This mask harnesses the gentle exfoliating power of pomegranate enzymes and lactic acid to effectively smooth and brighten the skin without causing irritation. The pomegranate enzymes work to break down protein build-up and dead skin cells, allowing for a clearer complexion by unblocking pores. The lactic acid further enhances the exfoliation by softening the skin and promoting a natural glow. What sets this formula apart is its blend of Ayurvedic oils such as Indian lime and wild turmeric, which rejuvenate and refine the skin, delivering both radiance and a soft, luminous finish.
Available now at Subtle Energies.
APEER Peeling mask
This exfoliating mask offers a gentle yet effective treatment for refining skin texture and reducing the appearance of enlarged pores. It combines lactic acid (AHA) to enhance cell turnover and remove dead skin cells, with niacinamide for its anti-inflammatory and pore-minimising properties. The inclusion of squalane provides hydration, leaving the skin feeling soft and smooth. This formula helps to unify uneven skin tone and texture, making it ideal for those seeking a brighter, more refined complexion.
Available now at Apeer.
Physical Peels: Mechanical Exfoliation for Instant Results
Physical peels, also known as mechanical exfoliation, involve the use of physical tools or abrasive substances to manually remove dead skin cells. Common physical exfoliants include scrubs with microbeads, salt, sugar, or other fine particles, as well as exfoliating tools like brushes or gloves.
Physical exfoliation offers instant gratification—immediately sloughing off dead skin cells to reveal smoother, brighter skin. According to Dr. Simon Ourian, co-founder of Simon Ourian MD, “The benefit of physical exfoliation is great for instant radiant skin, as it sloughs off dead skin cells, smooths and regenerates your skin – leaving you with a bright and even complexion.”
How Physical Peels Work
Physical peels work through friction: as the exfoliant is massaged into the skin, it physically scrapes away dead cells on the surface of the epidermis. This process can be effective for those looking for immediate results. However, it's critical to use the correct technique and pressure, as improper use can lead to skin damage.
Christine Mandac, a spa therapist at Beaumont, highlights the importance of professional guidance in physical exfoliation treatments. "We provide a Moroccan Hammam treatment, which is a wet exfoliation as well as a body scrub and wrap... For these types of professional treatments, guests will obtain the best results having conducted a full consultation with the therapists prior to the treatment, as we are able to check for skin allergies and any medical issues which may alter how we perform the treatment." The technique, pressure, and choice of product are all important factors to avoid skin irritation and achieve optimal results.
Benefits of Physical Peels
Instant Results: You can see and feel smoother skin immediately after treatment.
Versatile: Physical exfoliants can be used on both the face and body, making them ideal for more extensive treatments like body scrubs.
Great for Oily Skin: Individuals with thicker or oily skin types may benefit from the more robust removal of dead cells provided by mechanical exfoliation.
We recommend…
anokha Bamboo and Yuzu Scrub
This luxurious scrub combines bamboo extract and yuzu oil to deliver a gentle yet effective exfoliation. The bamboo extract provides a fine physical exfoliant that buffs away dead skin cells, while organic rice flour further cleanses and smooths the skin’s surface without causing irritation. Yuzu oil adds a refreshing citrus scent while also stimulating collagen production, brightening the skin, and offering antioxidant protection.
Available at anokha skincare.
ESPA Refining Skin Polish
This exfoliating polish stands out due to its use of spherical diatomaceous earth, which provides a gentle physical exfoliation to clear pores and remove impurities without damaging the skin. Its inclusion of rose damascena oil and shea butter ensures that while the product exfoliates, it also nourishes and hydrates, leaving skin soft and radiant. What makes it particularly unique is its ability to balance uneven skin tone and improve texture, making it ideal for those seeking smoother, brighter skin without harsh ingredients.
Available at Look Fantastic.
Simon Ourian MD Exfoliating Mask
This exfoliating mask by Simon Ourian, M.D. stands out due to its potent combination of alpha- and beta-hydroxy acids (AHAs and BHAs), including glycolic, salicylic, and lactic acids, which work together to exfoliate and rejuvenate the skin. Designed to brighten dull skin and reduce the appearance of hyperpigmentation, it is ideal for targeting fine lines and uneven texture. Unlike harsher exfoliants, it renews the skin without disrupting its pH balance or causing irritation, making it suitable for weekly use.
Available at Simon Ourian.
SkinCeuticals Micro-Exfoliating Scrub
This exfoliator combines hydrated silica and glycerin to gently remove dead skin cells, dirt, and excess oil while maintaining hydration, making it suitable for a variety of skin types, including dry, oily, and combination skin. What sets it apart is its ability to provide a mild physical exfoliation without irritating the skin, thanks to the inclusion of aloe vera, which soothes and cools. Ideal for improving texture and unclogging pores, this scrub is effective enough to be used a few times a week without stripping the skin of its natural moisture.
Available at SkinCeuticals.
In recent years, a new category of exfoliating products has emerged that combines both chemical and physical exfoliants in one formula, offering a dual-action approach for more comprehensive exfoliation.
These hybrid products typically contain a mix of gentle physical exfoliants, like finely milled beads or microcrystals, and chemical exfoliants such as alpha or beta hydroxy acids. The physical exfoliants provide instant smoothing by mechanically sloughing away dead skin cells, while the chemical agents work on a deeper level, dissolving the bonds between dead cells and promoting longer-lasting renewal. For example, products like exfoliating cleansers or multi-tasking masks often feature these combinations to maximize results while minimizing irritation.
The benefit of this approach is that it can offer a more thorough exfoliation without the need for multiple steps in your routine. However, experts recommend using such products with care, as combining both exfoliation methods can increase the risk of over-exfoliating, especially for those with sensitive skin. Regular use of these hybrid formulas should be limited to once or twice a week, and always followed by proper hydration to support the skin's barrier function.
We recommend…
Hydropeptide Exfoliating Cleanser
This exfoliating cleanser stands out by combining glycolic acid for deep exfoliation and jojoba beads for gentle physical resurfacing, making it highly effective at renewing the skin without harshness. The formula is further enhanced by peptides, which promote collagen production and reduce the appearance of fine lines, giving it anti-aging benefits that go beyond simple exfoliation. What makes this cleanser special is its ability to exfoliate while protecting the skin's moisture barrier, thanks to hydrating botanicals like green tea and ginseng, ensuring skin feels smooth and refreshed without being stripped or dried out.
Available at Hydropeptide.
First Aid Beauty KP Bump Eraser Body Scrub Strawberry 10% AHA
This body scrub is formulated with 10% AHAs, combining glycolic and lactic acids for effective chemical exfoliation. It works by resurfacing the skin’s top layer to smooth away rough bumps caused by keratosis pilaris and other textural concerns like "strawberry skin." What sets it apart is the dual exfoliation provided by pumice beads, which physically remove dead skin cells, complementing the chemical action of the AHAs. Despite its powerful exfoliation, it's safe for sensitive skin, and the added bisabolol soothes and calms, ensuring the skin feels smooth without irritation.
Available from Sephora.
Medik8 Pore Refining Scrub
This dual-action scrub combines both physical and chemical exfoliants, making it effective for reducing the appearance of pores while smoothing the skin. It uses jojoba microbeads for gentle physical exfoliation, which help buff away dead skin cells, while salicylic acid and mandelic acid work on a deeper level to unclog pores and promote cell turnover. The inclusion of niacinamide adds an extra layer of skin-soothing and anti-inflammatory benefits, making it a good choice for those dealing with blemishes or redness. What sets it apart is its creamy texture, which leaves the skin feeling refined and prepped for further skincare products.
Available at Medik8.
Cellcosmet Exfoliant Dual Action
This product stands out due to its dual-action exfoliation combining enzymatic and mechanical methods. Using jojoba and cellulose microspheres, it gently polishes the skin, while hibiscus-derived enzymes break down dead skin cells, helping to reveal a smoother, more radiant complexion. Its unique blend is suitable for sensitive skin types, offering exfoliation without irritation. Additionally, its biodegradable microspheres make it environmentally friendly, adding an ethical edge to its effectiveness.
Available at Harrods.
Dermalogica Daily Microfoliant Exfoliator
Combining both chemical and physical exfoliation, this powder transforms into a creamy foam when mixed with water, allowing gentle yet effective exfoliation. Rice enzymes work alongside salicylic acid to clear clogged pores and remove dead skin cells, while phytic acid helps brighten the skin. Its standout feature is its suitability for everyday use, even for sensitive skin, thanks to calming ingredients like colloidal oatmeal and licorice that prevent irritation. The result is smoother, brighter skin with minimal risk of over-exfoliation.
Available at Dermalogica.
Verdilab Illuminating Micro Exfoliating Mask
The Verdilabs Illuminating Micro Exfoliating Mask offers a unique combination of physical exfoliation with botanical acids for enzymatic exfoliation, making it effective yet gentle. What sets it apart is its use of a Marine Prebiotic Complex along with fruit acids from orange, lemon, and blueberry extracts, which help detoxify, remove dead skin cells, and unblock pores. Its 100% natural, vegan formula is also rich in antioxidants from green tea extract, protecting the skin from environmental damage while brightening and promoting cell renewal. It's ideal for sensitive skin, offering a smooth, luminous complexion without irritation.
Available at John Bell & Croyden.
