Why is Ectoin Taking Over Beauty?
Ectoin is emerging as one of the most versatile and effective skincare ingredients of 2024, offering robust hydration, anti-aging, protective, and soothing benefits. It challenges well-known ingredients like hyaluronic acid and niacinamide by providing comprehensive skin care benefits without irritation. Ectoin’s unique properties and extensive benefits make it a standout ingredient in the skincare industry.
"Ectoin’s multitasking abilities make it the perfect choice for And Begin’s Age Renewal Skincare, addressing firmness, hydration, and protection," says Dr. Malvina Cunningham, And Begin’s Resident Consultant Dermatologist MBPhD MRCP (DERM). "It also improves the skin's tolerance of retinoids, which is why we included it in our nightly Serum-in-a-Cream formulation."
Ectoin belongs to a group of compounds known as extremolytes, derived from extremophiles — bacteria that thrive in extreme environments such as deserts, salt lakes, and deep-sea vents. These unique molecules help these organisms survive by creating a protective barrier around their cells. When applied to human skin, ectoin mimics this protective function, shielding the skin from environmental stressors and maintaining hydration.
Ectoin is an amino acid derivative that forms a "hydro complex" with water molecules, creating a protective layer around skin cells. This layer stabilises cell membranes, prevents water loss, and protects against UV radiation and pollutants. Its small molecular size allows it to penetrate the skin barrier effectively, providing deep hydration and long-term protection.
"Ectoin is part of a category of ingredients called ‘extremolytes’. These compounds are derived from bacteria referred to as ‘extremophiles’ that thrive in extreme environments, such as deserts, salt lakes, and the deepest parts of the sea," explains Dr. Cunningham. "These unique protective molecules help bacteria withstand the most extreme environments, enabling survival and even flourishing by creating a protective barrier. It does this by forming water layers that stabilise and protect the structure it is on. Ectoin benefits the skin in a similar way, shielding it from environmental stressors, maintaining a strong, healthy skin barrier and improving skin hydration."
Key Benefits of Ectoin
Hydration: Ectoin acts as a powerful humectant, significantly enhancing skin hydration and alleviating dryness. Studies have shown that it can improve skin moisture levels by up to 200% during testing. A double-blind, placebo-controlled clinical study with 24 female volunteers aged 30-60 demonstrated that using a cream containing 2% ectoin for 28 days significantly improved skin smoothness, reduced wrinkle depth, and enhanced skin elasticity. The study noted a reduction in skin scaling by 76% and roughness by 86%, indicating substantial improvements in skin hydration and barrier function.
Barrier Protection: Ectoin fortifies the skin's natural barrier, shielding it from pollutants and environmental stressors. This is particularly beneficial in protecting against urban pollution and blue light exposure.
Anti-Aging: With its antioxidant properties, ectoin neutralises free radicals, reducing the signs of premature aging such as fine lines and wrinkles. In a split-face clinical study involving 33 subjects, a serum spray containing ectoin, alongside other marine-based ingredients, was found to increase skin hydration by 17% after 20 minutes and 5% after 28 days. Additionally, skin roughness and wrinkle appearance were significantly reduced by 17% after 28 days of continuous use. This study confirmed ectoin's ability to improve skin texture and reduce visible signs of aging.
UV Radiation Defence: Ectoin provides additional protection against UV damage, reducing the risk of sunburn and skin damage. It complements sunscreens by offering an extra layer of defence.
Minimises Environmental Damage: It protects the skin from pollution and other harmful environmental factors, maintaining skin health and preventing damage.
Reduces Redness: Ectoin’s anti-inflammatory properties calm redness and irritation, making it ideal for sensitive skin. Ectoin has also been shown to have anti-inflammatory properties comparable to hydrocortisone. In a study comparing 1% ectoin cream to 0.25% hydrocortisone, ectoin was found to reduce skin redness and irritation effectively without the side effects associated with hydrocortisone, making it a safer alternative for soothing sensitive or inflamed skin.
Enhanced Skin Texture: Regular use improves skin smoothness and texture, reducing roughness.
Wound Healing: Ectoin supports tissue repair and reduces inflammation, aiding the natural healing process.
Reduces Allergic Reactions: It helps mitigate skin reactions to allergens and irritants, providing relief for allergic skin conditions.
Compatible With Other Actives: Ectoin works synergistically with other skincare actives, boosting their effectiveness. It pairs well with glycerin, hyaluronic acid, and ceramides to enhance skin barrier functions.
"Ectoin is gentle and works on all skin types. Its anti-inflammatory properties help calm redness and irritation, making it particularly good for sensitive skin," adds Dr. Cunningham. "For those with dry or dehydrated skin, its exceptional moisture-retention capabilities make it a fantastic hydrating ingredient. It also works well for oily, combination, or acne-prone skin as it is not greasy and does not clog pores."
Ectoin’s protective and calming properties make it a valuable addition to various skincare formulations. "Given its protective and calming properties, ectoin makes a great addition to many different types of formulations. In fact, we are soon set to launch two more products which feature ectoin to protect against environmental stressors — a daily SPF moisturiser and a nightly eye cream," reveals Dr. Cunningham.
